When to plant
Direct sow after last frost when soil is warm. Thrives in summer heat that would stress most leafy greens. Often appears uninvited as a garden weed — recognize it as edible and harvest rather than compost. An excellent hot-weather substitute for lettuce.
Soil & site
Thrives in poor, dry, sandy soil where most other plants struggle. pH 5.5–7.0. No soil amendment needed. Actually produces better in unfertilized, dry conditions. Essentially a weed that happens to be delicious — grow it anywhere.
Feeding
Does not need fertilizer. Rich, moist soil produces lush growth but the texture and flavor are best from plants grown lean. Adding fertility is likely to produce a weedy sprawling plant rather than a tidy edible one.
Common problems
Virtually no pest or disease problems. The main concern is unwanted spreading — purslane self-seeds prolifically. Harvest before seeds set or manage spread by pulling unwanted seedlings. Very easy to grow to the point of becoming invasive.
When to harvest
Harvest stem tips and young leaves at any point once the plant is established and growing vigorously (4–6 weeks from sowing). The succulent leaves and stems should feel firm and plump. Older, larger stems become fibrous — harvest young growth for best eating. The plant is most productive in summer heat.
How to harvest
Snip stem tips 2–3 inches long, taking from throughout the plant. The plant will regrow from remaining stem nodes within 1–2 weeks. Alternatively, pull entire plants for a one-time harvest. Harvest in the morning when stems are crispest. Rinse thoroughly before use.
Storage & use
Refrigerate for up to 3 days in a bag. Rinse just before use — the succulent leaves and stems wilt quickly once cut. Eaten fresh in salads (similar to spinach, with a slightly mucilaginous texture), lightly sauteed, or pickled. Exceptionally high in omega-3 fatty acids for a plant food.
Useful for growing purslane
A few things that make this one easier — chosen for this plant, not a generic list.
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