When to plant
Plant in spring after last frost. Lavender is a long-lived perennial that improves with age. It needs 2–3 years to become fully established. In cold climates (zone 5 and below), treat as an annual or choose hardier varieties like Hidcote or Munstead.
Soil & site
Lavender requires excellent drainage above all else. It thrives in sandy, alkaline, even chalky soil. pH 6.5–8.0. Amend clay soil with generous grit or grow in raised beds. Waterlogged roots kill lavender quickly. In humid climates, mound soil to improve drainage.
Feeding
Very light feeder — rich soil reduces flower production and fragrance. A small amount of balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilizers which produce lush, floppy growth with few flowers.
Common problems
Root rot and stem canker in wet or poorly drained soil (most common cause of lavender death). Shab disease (spittle bugs). In humid climates, alterna leaf spot — improve air circulation by spacing plants widely. Lavender is generally very pest-resistant.
When to harvest
For the best fragrance and colour in dried lavender, harvest when about half the flowers on each stem are open. For fresh cut bouquets, harvest when flowers are just beginning to open. Cut before the heat of the day — morning fragrance is strongest.
How to harvest
Cut flower stems as long as possible, down into the leafy part of the plant. Never cut into old, completely bare woody stems — lavender won't regenerate from old wood. Bundle 20–30 stems with a rubber band (bunches will shrink as they dry) and hang upside down in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space.
Storage & use
Dried lavender bundles keep their fragrance for 1–2 years. Strip dried flowers from stems and store in airtight jars for culinary use (culinary lavender is wonderful in shortbread, honey, and lemonade). Dried lavender sachets in drawers repel moths naturally.
Useful for growing lavender
A few things that make this one easier — chosen for this plant, not a generic list.
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